Borderland Bourbon: Five-Malt Stouted Mash

Most of us did not start out sipping high-end pricey unicorns like Pappy Van Winkle.

Beginnings likely started with a friend or family member’s sample of something they appreciated, including us in an out-of-the-norm experience of the senses.

In my case, my first real experience with bourbon - outside of the occasional shot of Jack Daniels or whiskey and cola in college - was in 2010 when I moved to the mecca of bourbon, Kentucky.

Given my inquisitive nature, I decided to visit the Woodford Reserve Distillery. It was my first real adventure into the world of bourbon. My senses were overwhelmed by the sights, smells, and even tastes in the air.

I took a short tour of the distillery where I was able to see the “beer” being transformed by yeast in massive open wooden vats and sticking my finger into the warm brew so that I could sneak a little taste. The experience was like going back in time to 1838 when Irish stonemasons built the distillery.

Rock walls, aged wood structures, and the three copper pot stills are iconic of that era. It was seemingly void of all technological advances of the previous century. I was led to appreciate Woodford Reserve’s bourbon and whenever I feel nostalgic, I will pour a dram from what is to most connoisseurs, an ordinary Woodford Reserve Straight Bourbon Whiskey and remember that visit.

The whiskey I am reviewing this month is not that bottle. Aside from its originating distillery, it is nothing like the plain bourbon I tasted more than 12 years ago.

No, this is much more complex and distinctive. More like reminiscing over your first car as a teenager during your mid-life crisis. You loved that first car and often daydream of buying another one just to feel young again.

But alas, you are a grown adult and must concern yourself with adult things. The Woodford Reserve Five-Malt Stouted Mash is an adult thing. Far too intricate for a beginner to enjoy.

Theoretically, it is not really a bourbon but a malt whiskey. The master distillers at Woodford Reserve set out to create their own Frankenstein, combining stout beer concepts with bourbon. Why not? The distillery was built by Irish stonemasons after all.

The result is the most unique whiskey I have experienced to date.

The nose is not a bourbon, not a whiskey, and not a beer.

In fact, the memory clicking for me is not a flavor, but a smell. A scent if you will. One that takes me back to my dad’s boat as I was growing up. It is Tique wood. It is as if someone smeared a melted chocolate bar then spilled a cup of rich java on that Tique that had been sitting out in the sun all day.

The palate is viscous and sweet, with hints of smoked hazelnut, caramel, chocolate, and oddly something that reminds me of smoked oysters on ritz crackers. The finish is astonishingly long, kind of like that time when you thought it was a great idea to go see Titanic in the theater.

There is a short Kentucky hug as this spirit checks in at only 90.4 proof; far below most of the bourbons I review.

I find it difficult to rate this whiskey only because I have nothing to compare it to. However, since this is a review, my take is this whiskey is something you want around to break the monotony of traditional bourbon mashbills.

In my experience, connoisseurs often go through periods where it is difficult to distinguish between various bourbons – a “dead palate” so to speak. The Five-Malt Stouted Mash is the perfect remedy. It takes a few pours to get used to, but you will appreciate the inimitable savors it provides. 

This boredom breaker will set you back about $140 at Juanito’s Liquor Store on 7810 North Loop. Do not forget to join our El Paso Bourbon Club on Facebook. Cheers until next month fellow connoisseurs, until then may fortune favor your hunt.

Retired Army Col. Chris Lindner has been an aficionado of bourbon whiskey for 15 years. He is the founding member of the El Paso Bourbon Club. He can be reached at Christopher.g.lindner@gmail.com.